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September 15th, 2009

the search for speculoos

I never thought that chasing a wafel would end with me falling in love with a cookie.

And for once, that’s no euphemism.

A few months ago, on a rainy July day, I chased down the Wafels & Dinges truck for the first time. Catching up with it in midtown, eagerly eying the menu, I thought I knew exactly what I wanted. But something caught my eye; a mysterious topped called “speculoos” and marked as the Wafels & Dinges favorite. A simple query led to the presentation of a small, cinnamon-y cookie; and while M1 and I ended up opting for Nutella on our wafel, the enigmatic cookie lingered on both tongue and mind.

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A little research led to more information on the spiced cookie; known in the Netherlands as “speculaas” and in Belgium as “speculoos.” A cookie associated with St. Nick’s Eve (December 5th in the Netherlands and December 6th in Belgium), they are easily identified by the bas-relief image usually pressed into the dough. Seemingly ubiquitous in Belgium, I had never seen the infamous Lotus brand of speculoos anywhere in the US.

But God bless Google. Because a little rummaging led me to none other than Walgreens where Lotus brand speculoos have been rebranded as Biscoff. Yum.

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Still, the growing Belgophile in me wanted authentic speculoos. But a reliable source assured me that artisanal speculoos was impossible to get in this country. So in an attempt to achieve the culinary equivalent of the next best thing, I rolled up my sleeves, printed out a recipe, and got to work with the aid of a trusty partner.

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Crisp and sturdy, these cookies aren’t delicate things that you might carefully pack in a box to prevent them from shattering. They’re hard enough to surprise the unsuspecting but absolutely delicious with coffee. Thrown in a ziplock bag, they’ll easily fit into a jersey pocket for a mid-ride snack, and with this recipe making so many cookies, there’s even enough to pass around at your favorite bike shop.

I’m not done experimenting with this recipe, but here’s one for starters…

Speculoos
Adapted from this recipe.
[We accidentally added too much flour and managed to pull together the dough with the addition of yogurt and water. No negative consequences seemed to result but feel free to opt out of using the yogurt and just watch how much flour you’re adding.]

Ingredients:
500g or 4 cups all-purpose flour
150g or 2/3 cup unsalted butter at room temperature
1 egg
300g or 1 1/2 cups of dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon cloves
Pinch of salt
1 1/2 tablespoons Greek style yogurt
3 tablespoons water

[Makes about 50 cookies]

1. Preheat the oven to 180C/360F
2. In a food processor or stand mixer, mix the butter, sugar, salt, spices, and egg until it comes together. Transfer into a bowl if you are using a food processor.
3. Mix in the flour in batches by hand and knead the dough until it comes together. Use the Greek yogurt thinned with water if you add too much flour and it doesn’t seem to be coming together.
4. Divide the dough into two and place one portion onto a piece of parchment paper. Roll it out to a 5mm or 1/4 inch thickness. If you aren’t using speculoos molds [we weren’t], cut out the cookies into narrow rectangles.
5. Use a knife or spatula to transfer the cookies onto a lined cookie sheet. Bake for 12-15 minutes [the center will still be slightly soft when done].
6. Cool on a rack on the parchment paper. Repeat. Eat.

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6 responses so far ↓

  • 1 solobreak Sep 15, 2009 at 1:46 pm

    I’d be more impressed (pun intended) if you’d pressed a logo into them. Even if you just used a 12 cog or something. Next batch?

  • 2 Christoph Sep 15, 2009 at 3:18 pm

    Looks like that’s the pastry known as “Spekulatius” in these parts. SOunds like fun trying a recipe wich was reimported across the atlantic when I’m doing my yearly batch of gingerbread (Lebkuchen, around here).

  • 3 pedalstrike Sep 16, 2009 at 8:25 am

    solobreak — yup, that’s the plan. we wanted to just try it out because we didn’t know what to expect.
    christoph — speculoos, speculaas, and spekulatius…i love the slightly different names. gingerbread? mmmm now i’m hungry again…

  • 4 Oldboy Sep 16, 2009 at 12:12 pm

    Very funny to read that some person outside the Netherlands and Belqium has discovered the taste of ´speculaas´. I was reading your article at my work today (which was a busy day) and it put a big smile on my face!

    I am not surprised that the typical speculaas-taste surprised you because, I know what they taste like. And was raised with it. Not only do we eat it on special occassions like Sinterklaas (Sint-Nicolas) but ussualy in the colder months.

    And the cookies are hugely addictive! Sometimes I asked myself if they put some ‘secret’ ingredient in it which makes you want to keep eating them! Haha…..

    I wonder if your home-made wannabee speculaas will taste as nice as those here in this part of our planet? To bad you can’ t email them? Or teleporting them?! But who knows whaT the future will bring…..

    Tip; Try them with hot-choco and/or nice cup of tea! Succes quarenteed.

  • 5 Christoph Sep 16, 2009 at 3:18 pm

    ha, in the colder months… First Spekulatius sighting was end-of-august this year… Somebody predicted that in a few years the start of the “christmas season” will have shifted to january, then december (where it belongs)…

  • 6 meryl ankori Nov 1, 2009 at 7:57 am

    Came upon your website while I was looking for Speculoos! Have a Belgian son-in-law and got turned on to the cookies on a visit to his folks in Copenhagen – where they bring lots of goodies every time they go back home. Anyway – had no problem finding them in Walgreens in Santa Monica (after doing a Google search) but can’t seem to buy find them here in Manhattan. Being a baker I also went into the kitchen with a recipe from Nick Malgieri – a fabulous baking teacher and author. I stamped the cookies with a wheat sheaf impression but the dough was so easy to roll – and being the fall – I pulled out my cookie cutters and made turkeys and pumpkins – They are terriffic!!